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Cisco
816-421-0076
1807 Macon North Kansas City, MO, 64108
North Kansas City, MO
Fastenal- Kansas City
816-531-5700
2401 Southwest Boulevard Kansas City, MO, 64108
Kansas City, MO
MIDWAY WHOLESALE - KANSAS CITY
(816) 283-3667
2375 E Front St Kansas City, MO, 64120
Kansas City, MO
White Cap- Kansas City
816-471-1188
1907 Warren Street Kansas City, MO, 64116
Kansas City, MO
Fastenal- Kansas City
913-233-1860
1401 Fairfax Trf-way Bld D204 Kansas City, KS, 66115
Kansas City, KS
C I S C O
816-842-7777
2401 Summit Kansas City, MO, 64108
Kansas City, MO
Carlson Systems- Kansas City
816-241-6735
1691 N Topping Avenue Kansas City, MO, 64120
Kansas City, MO
Fastenal- North Kansas City
816-221-6770
1224 Swift Ave North Kansas City, MO, 64116
North Kansas City, MO
Overland Tool
816-268-4304
1404 Gentry North Kansas City, MO, 64116
North Kansas City, MO
ABC Supply Co. Inc./Kansas City
913-722-4747
1262 Southwest Blvd Kansas City, KS, 66103
Kansas City, KS

Router Fence For A Table Saw

Router Fence for a Table Saw

February 02, 2007
by  Jim Stuard

Your table saw is a router table and jointer just waiting to happen. Replace one of the saw's wings (or adapt your existing table board) to hold a router table insert, and you're in business. Add this router fence to your table saw's fence and you get a router fence with the capacity to handle boards few commercial router tables could even touch. Make a couple quick adjustments to the fence and you can edge-joint boards for gluing up panels -- no jointer necessary. 

This fence was designed for the Little Shop Mark II, a rolling workshop that was featured in the September 1999 issue (#110). However, this fence will work with just about any contractor- or cabinet-style table saw.

This fence is essentially two long plywood boxes with hardwood face fronts on them. The space between the boxes is where the router bit spins. One of the boxes stores router bits, the other acts as a dust collection chute. Though construction isn't complex, study the diagrams carefully before you begin.

It's in the Hole
First cut the hole for the insert in the top of your saw's table. If you've built the Little Shop Mark II, use the end of the long top for your table. For contractor's saws, you can use the table board on the right side of the saw. Or you can replace one of your saw's wings with a piece of laminate-covered plywood. Lay out the spot for the router table insert. I put the insert in the middle of the width of the table and between the back and front rail from the end. Cut the opening for the insert as shown in the photos. Mount the insert to the router. Drop it in the opening and adjust it so it's flush with the table.

Making the Fence
First you build the body of the fence, and then you attach the fence faces afterward. Begin by cutting the opening for the bit on the front piece. Use a rasp to round over the inside right edge of the opening to help deflect chips into the box that will later be connected to a shop vacuum. Next cut the bottom piece for the right box and cut a 45-degree chamfer on the end next to the opening for the bit, again to deflect chips.

Assemble the boxes like this: First attach the two end pieces of the left box to the left bottom piece. Then attach the larger end piece for the right-side box (with the dust collection hole) to the bottom piece for the right box. Now nail the front and back pieces to the left and right assemblies. Be sure to hold the bottom edges flush. For the top part of the fence, keep in mind there are three fixed pieces -- one on each end and one in the middle. And there are two removable pieces that give you access to the bit storage, the dust collection tube and the wing nuts that will hold the fence faces in place. Attach the three fixed top pieces and the support.

Now drill the holes in the back piece to accept the 1/4" x 20 t-nuts that attach the router fence to the saw fence.

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Click here to read the rest of this article from Popular Woodworking Magazine