Power Tools Des Moines IA

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White Cap- Des Moines
(515) 243-6969
1631 Second Avenue Des Moines, IA, 50314
Des Moines, IA
Fastenal- Des Moines
515-263-0053
3120 Delaware Ave Des Moines, IA, 50313
Des Moines, IA
Lowe's of Jordan Creek
515-440-9940
450 South Jordan Creek Parkway West DesMoines, IA, 50266
West Desmoines, IA
ABC Supply Co.,Inc/Des Moines
515-265-6135
2200 E. Euclid Ave. Des Moines, IA, 50317
Des Moines, IA
Carlson Systems- Grimes
515-986-5287
1851 Destination Drive Grimes, IA, 50111
Grimes, IA
Acme Tools-Des Moines
515-244-4189
629 SW 9th Street DES MOINES, IA, 50309
Des Moines, IA
WOODSMITH
10320 HICKMAN ROAD CLIVE, IA, 50325
Clive, IA
LOWE'S OF W. DES MOINES, IOWA
515 267-0300
1700 50TH ST. WEST DES MOINES, IA, 50266
West Des Moines, IA
BRADLEY TOOLS & FASTENERS, INC.
(515) 331-0878
6250 NW Beaver Dr Ste A-4 Johnston, IA, 50131
Johnston, IA
Fastenal- Ankeny
515-964-9413
201 SE Shurfine Suite 5 Ankeny, IA, 50021
Ankeny, IA

Router Fence For A Table Saw

Router Fence for a Table Saw

February 02, 2007
by  Jim Stuard

Your table saw is a router table and jointer just waiting to happen. Replace one of the saw's wings (or adapt your existing table board) to hold a router table insert, and you're in business. Add this router fence to your table saw's fence and you get a router fence with the capacity to handle boards few commercial router tables could even touch. Make a couple quick adjustments to the fence and you can edge-joint boards for gluing up panels -- no jointer necessary. 

This fence was designed for the Little Shop Mark II, a rolling workshop that was featured in the September 1999 issue (#110). However, this fence will work with just about any contractor- or cabinet-style table saw.

This fence is essentially two long plywood boxes with hardwood face fronts on them. The space between the boxes is where the router bit spins. One of the boxes stores router bits, the other acts as a dust collection chute. Though construction isn't complex, study the diagrams carefully before you begin.

It's in the Hole
First cut the hole for the insert in the top of your saw's table. If you've built the Little Shop Mark II, use the end of the long top for your table. For contractor's saws, you can use the table board on the right side of the saw. Or you can replace one of your saw's wings with a piece of laminate-covered plywood. Lay out the spot for the router table insert. I put the insert in the middle of the width of the table and between the back and front rail from the end. Cut the opening for the insert as shown in the photos. Mount the insert to the router. Drop it in the opening and adjust it so it's flush with the table.

Making the Fence
First you build the body of the fence, and then you attach the fence faces afterward. Begin by cutting the opening for the bit on the front piece. Use a rasp to round over the inside right edge of the opening to help deflect chips into the box that will later be connected to a shop vacuum. Next cut the bottom piece for the right box and cut a 45-degree chamfer on the end next to the opening for the bit, again to deflect chips.

Assemble the boxes like this: First attach the two end pieces of the left box to the left bottom piece. Then attach the larger end piece for the right-side box (with the dust collection hole) to the bottom piece for the right box. Now nail the front and back pieces to the left and right assemblies. Be sure to hold the bottom edges flush. For the top part of the fence, keep in mind there are three fixed pieces -- one on each end and one in the middle. And there are two removable pieces that give you access to the bit storage, the dust collection tube and the wing nuts that will hold the fence faces in place. Attach the three fixed top pieces and the support.

Now drill the holes in the back piece to accept the 1/4" x 20 t-nuts that attach the router fence to the saw fence.

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Click here to read the rest of this article from Popular Woodworking Magazine